Measuring-rule for tailors.



A. TOMASELLI.

MBASURING RULE POR TAILORS.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 19. 1909.

Patented May 31, 1910.

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ANDREW a cnam co, puorcinnocmmsws,wsmnamm QQ UNITED STAFHFATENT OFFICE.

ANTONIO TOMASELLI, OF CLEVELAND, OHIO.

MEASUB-ING-RULE FOR TAILORS.

To all whom it may concern.'

Be it known that I, ANTONIO TOMASELLI, sub]ect of Italy, residing atCleveland, 1n l the county of Cuyahoga and State of Ohio, have inventedcertain new and useful Improvements in Measuring-Rules for Tailors, ofwhich the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in measuring rules for tailors, andthe improvement consists in a rule constructed and arrangedsubstantially as hereinafter shown and particularly pointed out in theclaim.

The object of the invention is to provide a measuring rule for layingout a given sized pattern for a garment in the simplest manner and withconvenience and despatch and `also accuracy, and the markings of therule are especially designed and arranged to permit reading thereofwithout confusion or mistakes.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a reduced face view of myimproved rule or measure, and Fig. 2 is a view of a chart or pattern aslaid out and completed by the use of my rule. Fig. 3 is a perspectiveview (approximately full size) of a portion of my improved rule ormeasure showing double markings thereon for dual uses.

As shown, the rule or measure 2 is preferably constructed in theform ofa fiat blade which may be made of stiff cardboard, celluloid, wood ormetal. In use this blade is laid flat upon a sheet of paper and thepattern is ruled and pointed off therewith by following certain initialsteps which are invariably alike and form the basis of the final draftof the pattern. To this end, the rule is provided with spaced marks a,c, b and Z transversely of the blade at its opposite longitudinal edges,and these vmarks are arranged in separate series of dierent lengths.That is to say, marks a and Z compared with c and 5 are of differentlengths, the latter being relatively double the length of the former.All marks a and l are of the same length, and marks c and l) are alsoalike as to length. This difference of length distinguishes the marks onthe same longitudinal edges one from another but not suficiently forquick reading thereof. Therefore, all the marks a are connected by asingle lead line 3 running parallel with the edge of the rule andterminating at the eX- treme right or end edge of the rule, and this isalso true of the other marks c, b and d which are also separatelyconnected by simi- Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed July 19, 1909.

Patented May 31, 1910.

Serial No. 508,284.

lar lead lines 4f, 5 and 6, respectively arranged parallel with oneanother and the longitudinal edge of the rule and also terminating atthe right where each is provided with a conspicuous designatingcharacter A, C, B and D, respectively. These characters are printed orotherwise permanently affixed upon the face of the rule and preferablyat the extreme right at the end of each lead line, and in some instancesI may encircle each character by a ring 7 as shown in Fig. 3 to moreclearly indicate their connections.

Each of the transverse markings on the rule represents a predeterminedpoint of marking for a pattern of a given size, and the rule shown inFig. 1 is designated to make a single size of pattern of a predeterminedstyle and form. But in Fig. 3 the idea is extended to include two sizesof patterns. Thus, the transverse marks numbered 36 represent size 36,and those numbered 16 represent size 16. Either may be selected, butwhen selected the same number is used throughout although the sameproceeding is followed to lay out the pattern for both sizes. Thus, thefirst step taken is to lay out or rule line A-A horizontally of thepaper sheet P and then a line is drawn at right angles to A-A asrepresented in Fig. 2 by vertical line B-B. Then using designatingcharacter B on rule 2 as a guide and laying the rule parallel with andnext to line B-B and with the A-D end of the rule in abutting relationto line AdA, the next step is to pencil or prick the point b to b5inclusive, on the chart using marking lines Z) on the rule as a guide.The next step is to rule the lines C-C and DHD on the chart parallelwith each other and with line A A, using the pencil or prick points b4and 55 on the chart as guides. Now having these four lines relativelyarranged and marked as described, each line A-A, C-C and D-D is pointedoff by pencil or prick punch as shown by dots on said lines in Fig. 2,and according to the marks a, c, (Z, respectively as found on the ruleand as represented by corresponding designating characters A, C and D atthe end of the rule.A Then using pencil or prick points as a guide, itis an easy matter to finish drafting of the pattern or rather thefoundation of the pattern. This is done as follows: Using points a2, a3on line A-A as a guide a vertical line is drawn from each betweenhorizontal lines A and C. Then two horizontal lines are drawn at theleft of line B, using points b2 and 3 asvguides. Then a straight line isdrawn from a point half an inch to the right of point to lead to (Z onhorizontal line D. Then an inclined line is drawn from point c on line Cto point (zZ2 on line D, also another line from point c to point (Z3.Then passing to the left two lines are drawn which cross each otherbetween points c2, c3 and points (Z4, (Z5. The next lines to be drawnare the two substantially parallel lines between points c4, 05 and (ZGand (ZT. The next line is drawn between point (Z4 and (Zio, then from(Zw to a5, then again from (Z10 to c. `Now shifting to point (ZS, mark astraight line to a5 and then changing to point (Z9 draw another line topoint (L3. These lines now practically provide a foundation for theremaining steps in laying out the pattern, and further proceedings mayvary according to any change of style or peculiar' formation of thegarment without change in fit as to essentials.

As shown in Fig. 2 the pattern proper is represented by dotted lines,and the method of procedure in laying out these lines which are largelycurved to conform to the detailed requirements for a t, is as follows:First a curved line is drawn between points a and b which forms the neckin the back. From the same point, (L, a slightly curved line is drawnwhich extends to the letter e. This represents the half shoulder. Fromthat, a curved line is drawn which passes through point c to (Z2, thuscompleting the back except for the portion beneath line D which isarbitrary. Now mark a compound curved line through point c starting frompoint (Z3 and stopping at f, then draw a slightly curved line from pointf to point g and a little beyond, which forms another half portion ofthe shoulder for the back. From point g, draw an irregular curve to apoint slightly above point c3 which will form the dip in the back. Thenusing point c3 as a guide, draw an irregular curve therefrom to point(Z4, this representing the hang in the back. For the hang in the frontmark a curved line from point (it upward to the right and then mark amore or less irregular curved line to join therewith at a point abovepoint c2, said line starting at point (Z5 and passing through point 02.Also mark a curved line from point c4 to point (Z6 to complete thisportion of the pattern.

Now taking up the front pieces of the pattern, lay the rule across thesheet from point b4 and point a3 and mark a straight inclined line topoint ((3 upward to the left to bisect with an extension of the lineextending rom d10 to ((4. Measure six and one-half inches on thisinclined line from point It passing through point ((3. At the end ot'this distance mark an irregular curve as shown approximately to pointc5. Then mark an irregular curve from point c5 tocZ. Now draw a compoundcurved line, starting from point (ZS to point to represent the side ofthe front. For the front proper niarka a curved line from point a3 tothe left of point (Z9. Again, from point ((3 parallel the inclined lineto ZL by an irregular line as shown. Then mark an irregular curvethrough point to point Z which last point is located three inchesbeneath line A on the vertical line which passes through points (Zlo and06. This curve represents the curve of the neck and front. From point Zthe flap of the jacket is formed as shown in any desired form.

From the foregoing it will be seen that a simple system of laying outpatterns for garments may be taught by the use of my improved rule as itis so simple in form and so easily read, and it is especially adaptedfor use by beginners and by teachers in the art of garment cutting andis not limited in its use to experienced tailors, and when familiar withits use, different styles and shapes of garments may be laid out byusing the marks on the rule as a guide but not adhering strictlythereto. One marked advantage oi' the rule is in the time saved inaccurately laying out patterns as compared with all other devices andsystems known to me.

1What I claim is:

A measuring rule for tailors having a plurality of parallel lead linesextending lengthwise of the blade, each having a distinguishingcharacter different from that of the other or others and all saidcharacters being grouped together transversely of the blade, and aplurality of series of transverse marks arranged in multiple atirregular distances along the edge of the rule and respectivelyextending from said lead lines to said edge, and the different series ofmarks being distinguished from one another by dili'erent characters ateach mark.

In testimony whereof I aHix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

ANTONIO TOMASELLI.

vWitnesses:

E. M. FISHER, R. B. MOSER.

